Artificial Turf Installation in San Jose, CA

Turf doesn't hide anything. Every low spot, bump or soft patch in the base shows up on the surface. That's why we excavate to around 3 to 4 inches, deeper over soft soil or where the project calls for it, and replace what we remove with compacted aggregate. Class 2 aggregate base is a well-graded crushed rock that compacts to a firm, stable layer. Decomposed granite is a common alternative, especially for pet areas and light-use lawns, and crushed aggregate works too.

Compaction is the step that separates a flat turf from a wavy one. We place the base in lifts when it's thick, lightly moisten it, and run a plate compactor over it until the surface is dense and consistent. Using a standard like ASTM D698 (Standard Proctor) is typical on bigger, structural projects, while on a residential lawn we aim for the same idea: firm, even and no pumping or pillowing under foot.

We also check the subgrade. If the clay below is soft or holding water, a few extra inches of base, a drain connection, or a change of slope may be needed. Throwing turf over wet clay is the fastest way to get a spongy, smelly lawn.

Turf should shed water as a surface and also let it drain through. Good turf backing has perforations, and the base underneath should be free-draining. But clay under the base can hold water, so the surface also needs a slope, typically at least about 1 to 2 percent, to move water to a drain, planter or edge. Flat turf over clay holds water at the bottom of the base like a pan.

We shape the base so it sheds toward a safe outlet. Sometimes that's a lawn edge that drains into a planting bed, and sometimes it's a channel drain, a catch basin or a French drain at the low edge. Where water collects at a fence line or against a patio, we work out a French drain or a drain tied into solid pipe before the turf goes on. Draining turf by waiting and hoping isn't a plan.

A weed barrier does not replace drainage. It sits on top of the base to slow weeds from coming up through the rock, and good ones let water through. We use one that drains properly. A plastic sheet under turf will hold water and smell.

Pile height is how long the blades are. For residential lawns, roughly 1 1/4 to 2 inches is common, with shorter pile for high-traffic and pet areas and longer pile for a plush look. Face weight is the weight of the fibers per square yard, which gives a rough sense of density. Higher isn't automatically better, because quality of fiber, stitch rate and backing all matter. We pick a product by use, sun exposure and pets.

Backing is the layer the fibers are stitched into. Look for a dual-layer backing with a coating, and for pet and wet-climate yards, perforated backing, often polyurethane, so water drains through the turf rather than puddling on it. Thin, low-grade backing or poorly punched holes slow drainage and hold odor.

Infill sits between the blades. Silica sand is the standard: it weighs the turf down, supports the blades and protects the backing from sun. Coated sand reduces odor and dust and usually costs more up front. Antimicrobial or zeolite-based infills are used where pets are a concern. The right one depends on use, and we'll talk through options with you. Infill depth matters too, so the blades stand but still move naturally.

Seams are where installs fail visually. Two rolls of turf are placed with the pile running the same direction, the edges are trimmed with a sharp blade on the back so the stitch line is clean, and the seam is made with seam tape and adhesive under the joint. Fibers get pulled out of the glue line so the seam disappears. Gaps, flipped pile direction or glue squeezed up into the blades make a seam look like a scar.

Edges need restraint. The base and turf can creep without a solid border, and the edges can lift. Bender board, a concrete curb, pavers, aluminum edging and existing walkways all work, and we pick one based on the style and the use. The turf is then nailed to the edge restraint or into the base every few inches around the perimeter, often about 4 to 6 inches, with spikes that grab compacted base.

Power brooming is the finishing step. A rotating bristle broom stands the fibers up and works infill into the pile. It makes the difference between a flat, matted look and a natural one. We broom in several directions, and we recommend an occasional brush as part of upkeep.

Dogs and turf can get along, but pet areas need more care. A pet-rated turf with perforated backing, a free-draining base and an antimicrobial or zeolite-type infill helps with odor. Solid waste gets picked up and the area gets rinsed. Urine drains through the turf and into the base, so the base has to be free-draining. A base that holds water or a backing that blocks drainage is where odor comes from.

Heat is real. Synthetic turf can get noticeably hotter than natural grass in direct sun, because grass cools itself by evaporating water and plastic doesn't. Shade, lighter-colored fibers, certain infills and a quick rinse before use can help, and some products are marketed as cooler. We don't promise a surface temperature. We suggest where shade is, and where a different surface might serve better for bare feet.

Trees and roots matter. Excavating 3 to 4 inches can cut surface roots, which can hurt a tree, so we hand-dig near trunks and talk to you about leaving root zones alone or using an arborist. And remember that tree litter will still land on turf and need blowing off. HOAs often have rules about artificial turf in front yards, and some restrict color, pile or visibility. Check with your HOA first. As for water use, local water district turf-replacement rebate programs have existed in the Santa Clara Valley, but rules and eligibility change, and some programs have excluded synthetic turf. Check current availability before you plan around any rebate.